In 1962, Sotirios, ‘Sam’, Panopoulos use pineapple jam to decorate a round of cheese and York ham: the Hawaiian pizza is born
I am writing for the first time about a preparation that I do not like, It is consumed massively in Australia, which the Icelandic president asked for a ban in 2017 (jokingly or not?)that the Prime Minister of Canada defended, that the Italians hate (I know someone who, outside their territory, enthrones him), it was invented by a Greek in 1962 and popularized it in the country that welcomed him as an immigrant, Canada; which plays with the sweet and sour contrast of Chinese cuisine and with an evocative and heavenly name, which is part of the (reduced) repertoire of world-famous pizzas. Hawaiian, tropical, pineapple pizza.
It is striking that the country, Italy, where the question of authenticity gives it itches and rashes, is unable to catalog the pizza specter, and that they themselves commit aberrations that they do not allow others. Because recognizable pizzas, which can be identified by a Calabrian – to put it mildly –, a Finn and a Chilean, there are very few. The marinara, the margarita, the cossack, the whimsical…? How much more? The Hawaiian, of course, even though the Calabrian is about to rip my eyes out.
Hawaiian or tropical is a game of four anywhere: pineapple, tomato, mozzarella and sweet ham (in fact, it contains salt). Because the rest, the hundreds and hundreds, or thousands and thousands, that fill the menus of pizzerias around the world are made up.
Each place fills the dough with what they want and also names it on a whim. Pizzas with things, just like there is rice with things. Paella and pizza margarita go hand in hand because they respond to effective and regulated formulas. Daisy has some rules. Paella has a few rules. To attack them – and you are free to do so – is to distort them and damage their balance and their effectiveness.
Absolutely in favor of the pineapple pizza because there’s no code for what can and can’t be in a dough and absolutely against it because it’s not about opening a box and throwing yellow, greasy cuts on some York ham/tomato/cheese.
To write this text and update the flavor brain program, I just ate it and it was as disappointing as hugging a ficus. Without integration or desire for cohabitation, the fruit is there to justify a name.
This Sweety salty it works if done harmoniously, and I know there are suitable versions with plain and cooked pineapple (what would tacos al pastor be without that fruity counterpoint?), although pizza chains are more for multiplication than for finesse.
However, a well-worked fruit deviates from the founding gesture of Greek immigrant Sotirios, ‘Sam’, Panopoulos, who took a can in search of tropical joys to his restaurant in Chatham, known as Satellitewhich he shared with his brothers and which he resold in 1980, which is still open and where the Hawaiian is sold at €11.90 the small and €21.50 the extra large, under a motto: ” Since 1962, home of Hawaiian pizza”.
Until Panopoulos died in 2017, most people thought the origin of this combination was the archipelago and not a Canadian city an hour from the US border, with Detroit, where Greeks went to pizzerias. to refine their offer.
The sweet-salty roundness therefore has the residue of emigration and the border: something shameless, uprooted, from nowhere, from Greece, Canada, Italy, Hawaii.
In 1957, a pop-up Portland establishment, Francine’s Pizza Jungle, offered a Hawaiian on its menu, which left no trace, unlike the uninhibited act of Sam Panopoulos.
The important thing is to be the first, it’s true, but it’s still more effective that what you do has a path, an influence, a memory. And the Hawaiian pizza, we never forget it.